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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

COLOR AND FABRIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT


COLOR
AND FABRIC
QUALITY MANAGEMENT




     Table of Content


1.      Color Approval Program –
*      A basic knowledge of color
*      Color & Colorimetry
*      Color Standard
*      Color Approval Process

2.      Nath Color Approval Procedure
*      Visual & instrumental

3.      Nath Color Evaluation Procedure
4.      Nath Color Evaluation Form
5.      Nath Shade Continuity Submit Form
6.      Nath Fabric Approval Procedure
7.      NATH Fabric Quality Performance Standard
8.      Fabric Lab Test Report
9.      Garment Lab Test Report 

                         

























              NATH Approval Process

In order to provide very clear guidelines for our suppliers regarding our expectations and to maintain a high level of quality by insuring that all standards are correctly communicated, our methods are documented, and our specifications are defined

NATH Color Approval Program

Color is the customer’s first impression of total quality. When a customer picks up a product, color
is one of the most important factors of the buying decision.

NATH is committed to provide the customer with product of better quality.
We have developed some new procedures for color development & color process. We will
continuously update this information to improve product quality.

COLOR AND COLORIMETRY
What is Color

Color is what we see –an intuitive matter, an aspect of vision. Color is, in fact , a psychophysical way of response in which the human brain recognizes the different wavelength characteristics of light above a certain brightness level falling on the sensors in the retina of eye, called rods &  cones.

A persons recognition of an object’s color is the result of a complex process involving the response of the brain to the interaction of light with the object. Numerical description of this three components-the light  source, the object,& the observer-are all that  is required to calculate the description of any color with an objective set of  numbers. Other factors certainly influence our perception of color, but without these three components there is no perception.

























Light /illuminant

Illuminants are described numerically with spectral power distribution as defined by the CIE (The International Commission on Illumination.). There are different light sources. Average daylight contains wavelength of all colors while other contains significantly different amount of energy. This variation in color content results in noticeable color changes when an object is viewed under day light and other sources.


Object

Reflecting light back to an observer, some of the light striking an object is absorbed, and some light is reflected by the object. The reflected light is what we see as a color.


Observer

Sensing the reflected light. Every one sees color differently, depending on biological & psychological difference.

Terminology and Color description

Without standardized color communication, describing the visual differences between two fabric swatches can be very frustrating. Color may be described in terms of an internationally adopted system of color scales.

These are the CIE dimensions of:
            # Lightness L*- represents the degree of lightness or darkness, Value

            # Chroma C*- represents the degree of brightness, saturation, or fullness

            # Hue H*- represent the shade or cast of a color

In addition, the opponent scales of Red-Green (a*), and Yellow-Blue (b*) are also used.

These dimensions in color space are shown in the diagram on the following page from the Munsell Color Order System:

COLOR STANDARD

In order to get good result it is very important to start with a good color standard, and keep the same standard throughout the production chain.


NATH COLOR STANDARD

NATH have 46 own basic color standard valid for all styles to use season after season. The colors & the color codes never changed.

NATH develop this color with a special care & stock is available at our production office.

Suppliers are requested to collect all the exact color standard from NATH.





COLOR APPROVAL PROCESS



  1. LAB DIP SUBMIT PROCEDURE

            # Collect NATH color std. swatch from production office

            # Use NATH lab dip submission form to submit lab dip

            # Vendors must submit to the NATH office within 7 working days of receipt of request.

# Vendors must fill out the submit form with all required information. Reference both color
   Name & color code, appropriate style etc.

# Factory’s spectral readings of each lab dip should be forwarded with the submits.
 Attach the spectral printout to the back of each submission form.

# Lab dips should be in the correct fabrication/fiber content.

# Factory should submit lab dips that can meet all color tolerance and color performance       requirements.

# For repeat colors on carry-over programs being done by same factory, resubmission of lab dip is not necessary unless indicated.



  1. BULK OR PRODUCTION FABRIC SUBMIT PROCEDURE

# For confirming the shade continuity, it is recommended to vendors to get the approval of shade for each batch of all the color for every style.

# Bulk fabric will be evaluated visually against the NATH color standard, as well as the approved lab dip.

# Use NATH shade continuity form for submit dye lot for bulk approval. fill out all the required information of the form.

# For on going carry-over programs, bulk must be resubmitted for each new delivery to be evaluated for consistency to the established shade band.


















COLOR EVALUATION

Both the visual & instrumental evaluation of the fabrics is done. During visual evaluation samples should be viewed at a 45 degree angle.
All lab dip, bulk sample shade band should be viewed under D65 as primary light source.
This light source very resembles with sunlight. They also have to view under TL84 secondary light source. As the light of Europe ware house are using this type of light source. Sample should be match under both light source with lowest metamerism.

For instrumental evaluation following methods should be taken care:(with spectrophotometer)

For DataColor SF600 or other version

1. Double plies for opaque fabrics. Light weight and translucent fabrics should be folded with at least 4 layers for measurement. Fabric should be placed directly on sample port holder.

2. Large area view (LAV) for Lab dip, Standard & Bulk.


3. Measuring Color: UV-filter Excluded
                             UV-filter Calibrator

4. Specular included

5. Measuring color:
Under illuminants/observer D-65-10Deg as primary light source, and TL-84-10Deg as secondary light source.
Measuring white:
Under illuminants/observer D65-10 Deg

6. All fabrics will be measured with the face towards the instrument.

7. Tolerance of Instrumental measurement are DECMC 1.0 (L: C = 2:1)

The color should meet our tolerances both visually and instrumentally.

However, Nath reserve the right to reject any lab dips or bulk sample if  they are not within tolerance visually. 


















NATH COLOR EVALUTION SUBMIT FORM

Vendor name:
Nath Design Season:
Style:
Fabrication:
Fiber content:
Date:

Color Code:                                         Color Name:

Submission Round:                                 Round 1                        Round 2                            BCD









             Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size








Lab Dip Option #






             Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size








Lab Dip Option #






Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size








Lab Dip Option #






            Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size








Lab Dip Option #


Lab Dip Approval Comments:





Signature of Color technologist:
                
NATH SHADE CONTINUITY SUBMIT FORM

Factory Name-

   L/C no-                                                                Required Fabric-

   Style-                                                                   Lot No-                                                                   

   Color-                                                                  Batch No-

   Fabrication-                                                        Batch Qty-

   Required G.S.M-                                                Date -













Shade of the fabric



Signature (factory person)                                                     Authorize Signature























NATH Fabric Approval Process

































NATH Fabric Approval Process

NATH is very much conscious about the quality of fabric. Because the performance & longevity of garments is depend on the quality of fabric. Our reputation depends on the quality garments we provide. 

Every dye lot run through a factory must undergo a minimal quality checks including weight, shrinkage & color fastness to washing, water, wet crock & dry crock. Fabrics should meet these minimal quality checks in addition to the requirements outlined by NATH. This testing will be completed by internal testing laboratory at NATH. But if required we can nominate for third party testing. But the financial responsibility of those tests is of vendor.

Factory Should Supply Fabric Following Way:

# Send 30x30 cm dyed fabrics from bulk production of each lot for measurement of GSM, color fastness test.

# Send 60x60 cm fabric with over locked all sides for shrinkage & twisting test

# provided fabric should be of all single batches dyed for color & style wise requirement.

# Factory should provide all the required data such as batch no., batch qty, and total fabric requirement.

FOLLOWING ARE THE NATH QUALITY CRITERIA REQUIRED FOR FABRIC APPROVAL:

#Fabrication -

  NATH have the following fabrics  -
  1. single jersey-100% cotton   
  2. single jersey-95/5% cotton/spandex
  3. 1x1 Rib-100% cotton
  4. polo pique-100% cotton

# Dimensional Stability-

The dimensional stability test is designed to show how well a fabric keeps its shape after washing, washing usually results in shrinkage, although some fabrics can expand or gain after washing. For this test washing time, temperature, drying procedure are all specified.

# Color Fastness
There are different types of color fastness which need to be tested as the color of a fabric can be affected by a variety of factors. for example-color fastness to wash , color fastness to dry & wet crocking, color fastness to bleaching, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to light.

# PH-

PH value confirms the state of acidity or alkalinity of fabrics.









For NATH Fabric Quality Approval Following is the Performance Standard for Vendor:
                                                           
TEST NAME
STANDARD TEST METHOD
NATH STANDARD
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Fabric weight(GSM)
As requirement
± 5% max
Defect/Evenness of color
Visual
None/Even



WASHABILITY
Dimensional stability(wash)
EN ISO 6330/ISO 5077
length± 5%
width± 5%
Twisting/Spirality
in house test method
3% max
based on EN ISO 6330
Appearance
Three times m/c wash
No major change



COLOR FASTNESS PROPERTY
Color fastness to wash
ISO 105-C01 modified
Color Staining: 3-4


Color changing: 4
Color fastness to crocking
EN ISO 105-X12
Dry:4


Wet:3
Color fastness to perspiration
EN ISO 105-E04
Color Staining: 3-4


Color changing: 4
Color fastness to light
EN ISO 105-B02
Color changing: 5



STRENGTH/DURABILITY
Pilling resistance
EN ISO 12945-1
Class:3(14400rev)



Bursting strength
ASTM 3786
min 50 lbs/sq.inch



OTHER PROPERTIES
PH Range
EN 1413:1998
Range 6-8
Flammability
16 CFR 1610
Class 1






















Pintex customized apparel ltd.

Fabric/Garment Lab Test report







Season:
Style#:

Sample: Fabric(  )/Garment(  )
Fabrication/fiber content:

Required Fabric Weight(GSM):
Color code & Name:

Batch No:
Batch Qty:

Total Fabric requirement:
Submission Date:

Submission Round No:







Care instruction:















TEST NAME
STANDARD TEST METHOD
NATH STANDARD
TEST RESULT
COMMENTS

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Fabric weight(GSM)
As requirement
± 5% max



Defect/Evenness of color
Visual
None/Even









WASHABILITY

Dimensional stability(wash)
EN ISO 6330/ISO 5077
length± 5%



width± 5%



Twisting/Spirality
in house test method
3% max



based on EN ISO 6330

Appearance
Three times m/c wash
No major change









COLOR FASTNESS PROPERTY

Color fastness To actual laundering
ISO 105-C01 modified
Color Staining: 3-4





Color changing: 4



Color fastness to crocking
EN ISO 105-X12
Dry:4





Wet:3



Color fastness to perspiration
EN ISO 105-E04
Color Staining: 3-4





Color changing: 4



Color fastness to light
EN ISO 105-B02
Color changing: 5









STRENGTH/DURABILITY

Pilling resistance
EN ISO 12945-1
Class:3(14400rev)









Bursting strength
ASTM 3786
min 50 lbs/sq.inch









OTHER PROPERTIES

PH Range
EN 1413:1998
Range 6-8



Flammability
16 CFR 1610
Class 1















Comment on Test Result:








Pintex customized apparel ltd.
Garment Lab Test report















Vendor:
Order:
Season:
Style:
Sample: Fabric(  )/Garment(  )
Fabrication/fibre content:
Required Fabric Weight:
Color code & Name:
Batch No:
Batch Qty:
Total Fabric requirement:
Submission Date:
Submission Round No:





Care lnstruction:


Care Label:





TEST NAME
STANDARD TEST METHOD
NATH STANDARD
TEST RESULT
COMMENTS
Color fastness to laundering
ISO 105-C01 modified
Color Staining: 3-4




Color changing: 4


Color fastness to crocking
EN ISO 105-X12
Dry:4




Wet:3


Skewing/spirality
in house test method
  3% max
 Spirality %


based on EN ISO 6330



Overall Appearance of
As per care instruction
loose thread or other


Garments after wash
 three washes
defectiveness







Dimensional stability

EN ISO 6330/ISO 5077modified

± 5% max



Evaluation             Original
B/wash            After wash


Point                     Measurement
Measurement   Measurement
Shrinkage %

Front length



Arm hole



(wash shrinkage)
Chest




Sweep




Sleeve length




A/shoulder













COMMENT ON TEST  RESULT:









AUTHORIZED LAB SIGNATURE:





































Thank You from NATH

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