COLOR AND FABRIC QUALITY MANAGEMENT

COLOR

AND FABRIC

QUALITY MANAGEMENT

     Table of Content

1.      Color Approval Program –

      A basic knowledge of color

      Color & Colorimetry

      Color Standard

      Color Approval Process

2.      Nath Color Approval Procedure

      Visual & instrumental

3.      Nath Color Evaluation Procedure

4.      Nath Color Evaluation Form

5.      Nath Shade Continuity Submit Form

6.      Nath Fabric Approval Procedure

7.      NATH Fabric Quality Performance Standard

8.      Fabric Lab Test Report

9.      Garment Lab Test Report 

                         

              NATH Approval Process

In order to provide very clear guidelines for our suppliers regarding our expectations and to maintain a high level of quality by insuring that all standards are correctly communicated, our methods are documented, and our specifications are defined

NATH Color Approval Program

Color is the customer’s first impression of total quality. When a customer picks up a product, color

is one of the most important factors of the buying decision.

NATH is committed to provide the customer with product of better quality.

We have developed some new procedures for color development & color process. We will

continuously update this information to improve product quality.

COLOR AND COLORIMETRY

What is Color

Color is what we see –an intuitive matter, an aspect of vision. Color is, in fact , a psychophysical way of response in which the human brain recognizes the different wavelength characteristics of light above a certain brightness level falling on the sensors in the retina of eye, called rods &  cones.

A persons recognition of an object’s color is the result of a complex process involving the response of the brain to the interaction of light with the object. Numerical description of this three components-the light  source, the object,& the observer-are all that  is required to calculate the description of any color with an objective set of  numbers. Other factors certainly influence our perception of color, but without these three components there is no perception.

Light /illuminant

Illuminants are described numerically with spectral power distribution as defined by the CIE (The International Commission on Illumination.). There are different light sources. Average daylight contains wavelength of all colors while other contains significantly different amount of energy. This variation in color content results in noticeable color changes when an object is viewed under day light and other sources.

Object

Reflecting light back to an observer, some of the light striking an object is absorbed, and some light is reflected by the object. The reflected light is what we see as a color.

Observer

Sensing the reflected light. Every one sees color differently, depending on biological & psychological difference.

Terminology and Color description

Without standardized color communication, describing the visual differences between two fabric swatches can be very frustrating. Color may be described in terms of an internationally adopted system of color scales.

These are the CIE dimensions of:

            # Lightness L*- represents the degree of lightness or darkness, Value

            # Chroma C*- represents the degree of brightness, saturation, or fullness

            # Hue H*- represent the shade or cast of a color

In addition, the opponent scales of Red-Green (a*), and Yellow-Blue (b*) are also used.

These dimensions in color space are shown in the diagram on the following page from the Munsell Color Order System:

COLOR STANDARD

In order to get good result it is very important to start with a good color standard, and keep the same standard throughout the production chain.

NATH COLOR STANDARD

NATH have 46 own basic color standard valid for all styles to use season after season. The colors & the color codes never changed.

NATH develop this color with a special care & stock is available at our production office.

Suppliers are requested to collect all the exact color standard from NATH.

COLOR APPROVAL PROCESS

1. LAB DIP SUBMIT PROCEDURE

            # Collect NATH color std. swatch from production office

            # Use NATH lab dip submission form to submit lab dip

            # Vendors must submit to the NATH office within 7 working days of receipt of request.

# Vendors must fill out the submit form with all required information. Reference both color

   Name & color code, appropriate style etc.

# Factory’s spectral readings of each lab dip should be forwarded with the submits.

 Attach the spectral printout to the back of each submission form.

# Lab dips should be in the correct fabrication/fiber content.

# Factory should submit lab dips that can meet all color tolerance and color performance       requirements.

# For repeat colors on carry-over programs being done by same factory, resubmission of lab dip is not necessary unless indicated.

2. BULK OR PRODUCTION FABRIC SUBMIT PROCEDURE

# For confirming the shade continuity, it is recommended to vendors to get the approval of shade for each batch of all the color for every style.

# Bulk fabric will be evaluated visually against the NATH color standard, as well as the approved lab dip.

# Use NATH shade continuity form for submit dye lot for bulk approval. fill out all the required information of the form.

# For on going carry-over programs, bulk must be resubmitted for each new delivery to be evaluated for consistency to the established shade band.

COLOR EVALUATION

Both the visual & instrumental evaluation of the fabrics is done. During visual evaluation samples should be viewed at a 45 degree angle.

All lab dip, bulk sample shade band should be viewed under D65 as primary light source.

This light source very resembles with sunlight. They also have to view under TL84 secondary light source. As the light of Europe ware house are using this type of light source. Sample should be match under both light source with lowest metamerism.

For instrumental evaluation following methods should be taken care:(with spectrophotometer)

For DataColor SF600 or other version

1. Double plies for opaque fabrics. Light weight and translucent fabrics should be folded with at least 4 layers for measurement. Fabric should be placed directly on sample port holder.

2. Large area view (LAV) for Lab dip, Standard & Bulk.

3. Measuring Color: UV-filter Excluded

                             UV-filter Calibrator

4. Specular included

5. Measuring color:

Under illuminants/observer D-65-10Deg as primary light source, and TL-84-10Deg as secondary light source.

Measuring white:

Under illuminants/observer D65-10 Deg

6. All fabrics will be measured with the face towards the instrument.

7. Tolerance of Instrumental measurement are DECMC 1.0 (L: C = 2:1)

The color should meet our tolerances both visually and instrumentally.

However, Nath reserve the right to reject any lab dips or bulk sample if  they are not within tolerance visually. 

NATH COLOR EVALUTION SUBMIT FORM
Vendor name:	Nath Design Season:	Style:
Fabrication:	Fiber content:	Date:

Color Code:                                         Color Name:

Submission Round:                                 Round 1                        Round 2                            BCD

Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size Lab Dip Option #	Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size Lab Dip Option #
Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size Lab Dip Option #	Min 3”x3” Lab Dip Size Lab Dip Option #

Lab Dip Approval Comments:

Signature of Color technologist:

                

NATH SHADE CONTINUITY SUBMIT FORM

Factory Name-

   L/C no-                                                                Required Fabric-

   Style-                                                                   Lot No-                                                                   

   Color-                                                                  Batch No-

   Fabrication-                                                        Batch Qty-

   Required G.S.M-                                                Date -

Shade of the fabric

Signature (factory person)                                                     Authorize Signature

NATH Fabric Approval Process

NATH Fabric Approval Process

NATH is very much conscious about the quality of fabric. Because the performance & longevity of garments is depend on the quality of fabric. Our reputation depends on the quality garments we provide. 

Every dye lot run through a factory must undergo a minimal quality checks including weight, shrinkage & color fastness to washing, water, wet crock & dry crock. Fabrics should meet these minimal quality checks in addition to the requirements outlined by NATH. This testing will be completed by internal testing laboratory at NATH. But if required we can nominate for third party testing. But the financial responsibility of those tests is of vendor.

Factory Should Supply Fabric Following Way:

# Send 30x30 cm dyed fabrics from bulk production of each lot for measurement of GSM, color fastness test.

# Send 60x60 cm fabric with over locked all sides for shrinkage & twisting test

# provided fabric should be of all single batches dyed for color & style wise requirement.

# Factory should provide all the required data such as batch no., batch qty, and total fabric requirement.

FOLLOWING ARE THE NATH QUALITY CRITERIA REQUIRED FOR FABRIC APPROVAL:

#Fabrication -

  NATH have the following fabrics  -

1. single jersey-100% cotton   
2. single jersey-95/5% cotton/spandex
3. 1x1 Rib-100% cotton
4. polo pique-100% cotton

# Dimensional Stability-

The dimensional stability test is designed to show how well a fabric keeps its shape after washing, washing usually results in shrinkage, although some fabrics can expand or gain after washing. For this test washing time, temperature, drying procedure are all specified.

# Color Fastness –

There are different types of color fastness which need to be tested as the color of a fabric can be affected by a variety of factors. for example-color fastness to wash , color fastness to dry & wet crocking, color fastness to bleaching, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to light.

# PH-

PH value confirms the state of acidity or alkalinity of fabrics.

For NATH Fabric Quality Approval Following is the Performance Standard for Vendor:

                                                           

TEST NAME	STANDARD TEST METHOD	NATH STANDARD
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Fabric weight(GSM)	As requirement	± 5% max
Defect/Evenness of color	Visual	None/Even
WASHABILITY
Dimensional stability(wash)	EN ISO 6330/ISO 5077	length± 5%
		width± 5%
Twisting/Spirality	in house test method	3% max
	based on EN ISO 6330
Appearance	Three times m/c wash	No major change
COLOR FASTNESS PROPERTY
Color fastness to wash	ISO 105-C01 modified	Color Staining: 3-4
		Color changing: 4
Color fastness to crocking	EN ISO 105-X12	Dry:4
		Wet:3
Color fastness to perspiration	EN ISO 105-E04	Color Staining: 3-4
		Color changing: 4
Color fastness to light	EN ISO 105-B02	Color changing: 5
STRENGTH/DURABILITY
Pilling resistance	EN ISO 12945-1	Class:3(14400rev)
Bursting strength	ASTM 3786	min 50 lbs/sq.inch
OTHER PROPERTIES
PH Range	EN 1413:1998	Range 6-8
Flammability	16 CFR 1610	Class 1

Pintex customized apparel ltd.
Fabric/Garment Lab Test report
Season:				Style#:
Sample: Fabric(  )/Garment(  )				Fabrication/fiber content:
Required Fabric Weight(GSM):				Color code & Name:
Batch No:				Batch Qty:
Total Fabric requirement:				Submission Date:
Submission Round No:
Care instruction:
TEST NAME		STANDARD TEST METHOD		NATH STANDARD	TEST RESULT		COMMENTS
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Fabric weight(GSM)		As requirement		± 5% max
Defect/Evenness of color		Visual		None/Even
WASHABILITY
Dimensional stability(wash)		EN ISO 6330/ISO 5077		length± 5%
				width± 5%
Twisting/Spirality		in house test method		3% max
		based on EN ISO 6330
Appearance		Three times m/c wash		No major change
COLOR FASTNESS PROPERTY
Color fastness To actual laundering		ISO 105-C01 modified		Color Staining: 3-4
				Color changing: 4
Color fastness to crocking		EN ISO 105-X12		Dry:4
				Wet:3
Color fastness to perspiration		EN ISO 105-E04		Color Staining: 3-4
				Color changing: 4
Color fastness to light		EN ISO 105-B02		Color changing: 5
STRENGTH/DURABILITY
Pilling resistance		EN ISO 12945-1		Class:3(14400rev)
Bursting strength		ASTM 3786		min 50 lbs/sq.inch
OTHER PROPERTIES
PH Range		EN 1413:1998		Range 6-8
Flammability		16 CFR 1610		Class 1
Comment on Test Result:
Pintex customized apparel ltd.
Garment Lab Test report
Vendor:			Order:
Season:			Style:
Sample: Fabric(  )/Garment(  )			Fabrication/fibre content:
Required Fabric Weight:			Color code & Name:
Batch No:			Batch Qty:
Total Fabric requirement:			Submission Date:
Submission Round No:
Care lnstruction:
Care Label:
TEST NAME	STANDARD TEST METHOD		NATH STANDARD			TEST RESULT		COMMENTS
Color fastness to laundering	ISO 105-C01 modified		Color Staining: 3-4
			Color changing: 4
Color fastness to crocking	EN ISO 105-X12		Dry:4
			Wet:3
Skewing/spirality	in house test method		3% max			Spirality %
	based on EN ISO 6330
Overall Appearance of	As per care instruction		loose thread or other
Garments after wash	three washes		defectiveness
Dimensional stability	EN ISO 6330/ISO 5077modified		± 5% max
	Evaluation             Original		B/wash            After wash
	Point                     Measurement		Measurement   Measurement			Shrinkage %
	Front length
	Arm hole
(wash shrinkage)	Chest
	Sweep
	Sleeve length
	A/shoulder
COMMENT ON TEST  RESULT:
AUTHORIZED LAB SIGNATURE:

Thank You from NATH